Cosmetic raw material innovation under the New Deal will be popular | cosmetics legal observation

Author: 焦汉伟 熊秋娜
Published on: 2021-03-15 00:00
Read: 12

    U.S. market research agencies TransparencyMarketResearch released the global cosmetics raw material market: The Global Industry Analysis, scale market share, Growth, fashion trends and Prospects from 2017 to 2025 report shows that the trend of global consumers pursuing beauty is intensifying, the demand for cosmetics is growing rapidly, and the cosmetics raw material market is naturally being drawn to grow rapidly. With the long-term development of foreign cosmetics raw material industry, a large number of cosmetics raw material giants such as BASF, Ashland, Dezhixin, and Heda have emerged. They have relatively advanced technology and production level, and are in the first echelon of cosmetics raw material industry. Japan Nissin Oritomo, Nikko Chemical, Imperial Chemical, Ajinomoto and other raw material manufacturers, after a long time of development, in the second echelon of the industry. China's raw material suppliers are highly dependent on foreign manufacturers, raw material technology research and development capabilities, testing and inspection systems and cognitive ability of the cosmetics industry lag behind the international level, and are currently in the third echelon. In recent years, China's cosmetic raw material industry has made great progress, and a number of excellent cosmetic raw material enterprises have emerged, but there is still much room for improvement on the whole. Article 9 of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, implemented on January 1, 2021, stipulates that the state encourages and supports cosmetic research and innovation, meets consumer demand, promotes cosmetic brand building, and gives play to the leading role of brands; The State protects the lawful rights and interests of units and individuals to carry out cosmetic research and innovation. As the upstream industry of cosmetics industry, raw material innovation is becoming more and more important.

The long-term development of the cosmetics industry in developed countries, such as Shiseido founded in 1872 and L 'Oreal founded in 1907, has a long history. China's modern cosmetics industry has gone through more than 30 years since the implementation of the "Cosmetic Hygiene Supervision Regulations" in 1990, and it is still very young. With the implementation of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics on January 1, 2021 as the watershed, China's cosmetics industry can be divided into two stages. In the first stage, the economy is not developed, the national confidence of consumers is not high, and the phenomenon of consumers worshipping foreign things is serious; The cosmetics market is based on basic skin care; Cosmetics enterprises are relatively young, the strength of scientific research is weak, and marketing is less important than scientific research. After 30 years of development and precipitation, at this stage, the national economy is developing rapidly, national self-confidence is returning, and consumers are more rational about domestic products; High demand for high-end skin care and beauty modification in the cosmetics market; The scientific research strength of cosmetics enterprises has been significantly improved, and scientific research centers have been established, and the innovation ability and innovation enthusiasm are high. In recent years, from "ingredient party" to "efficacy control", from whitening and anti-aging niacinamide, A alcohol to yeast essence, carnosine, etc., the importance of raw material innovation has become increasingly important for cosmetics marketing, and the development trend of cosmetics market has led more and more enterprises to participate in the research and development of raw materials. On the one hand, China's cosmetics market is huge, has become the world's second largest cosmetics market, and is still in a period of rapid growth; On the other hand, China's cosmetics industry is in a new stage of development, putting forward new demands for the raw material industry, the cosmetics industry needs innovative raw materials to support product efficacy, but also needs innovative raw materials to support brand promotion and product marketing. It is foreseeable that with the rapid development of China's cosmetics industry, the development of raw materials represented by efficacy as the core appeal will drive more new raw materials for cosmetics to enter the market, and then promote scientific and technological innovation in China's raw materials industry.

Rules determine the development direction and development space of an industry. Cosmetics are a chemical mixture of natural, synthetic or extracted basic raw materials, auxiliary raw materials and functional raw materials with different functions, processed by heating, stirring and emulsifying production processes and production processes. The quality of cosmetics is affected by many factors such as raw materials, formula, production process, production process and environment. Among the above factors that affect the quality of cosmetics, the raw materials of cosmetics have the greatest impact on the quality of cosmetics. Based on the impact of cosmetic raw materials on the quality and safety of cosmetics, China implements a raw material management system combining catalog management and licensing. According to whether the raw materials of cosmetics are used for the first time in China, the ingredients of cosmetics are divided into two kinds: used raw materials of cosmetics and new raw materials of cosmetics. The raw materials used in cosmetics refer to the raw materials specified in the "Catalogue of the Name of the raw materials used in Cosmetics" (currently implemented as the 2015 edition), which specifies the 8783 raw ingredients of cosmetics that have been used in the field of cosmetics production in China at present, and cosmetics enterprises can decide to use the above 8783 raw ingredients in accordance with the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications". New cosmetic raw materials refer to natural or artificial raw materials first used in the production of cosmetics in China. The innovation of cosmetics raw materials in China is mainly reflected in the direction of new cosmetics raw materials. For the new raw materials of cosmetics, the early implementation of the new raw materials licensing system. Due to the high threshold of new raw material licensing, and the new raw material development enterprises are open to the whole industry after obtaining the license, resulting in the internal enthusiasm of cosmetics enterprises to develop new raw materials is not high. According to statistics, as of the date of promulgation of the new regulations, only 4 new raw materials have actually been successfully registered. There is basically no innovation in China's cosmetics raw materials, which also restricts the development of the downstream domestic cosmetics industry to a certain extent. Based on this status quo, the "Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics" implemented on January 1, 2021 adjusted the supervision system for new raw materials of cosmetics, and the new rules implemented classified management according to different risks of new raw materials. Among them, anti-corrosion, sun protection, whitening and freckle removal, coloring, hair dyeing five high-risk raw materials are still registered; Other new raw materials with low risk degree shall be changed to the recording system. Other new raw materials outside the five categories of anti-corrosion, sun protection, whitening and freckle removal, coloring and hair coloring can be put into use after filing according to the requirements, reducing the application threshold of new raw materials for cosmetics; At the same time, the new regulations also provide for a three-year monitoring period after the registration or filing of new raw materials. Although the new raw material registrant or filing person needs to submit a safety monitoring report every year during the monitoring period, the new raw material shall not be used without the permission of the new raw material registrant or filing person or a separate application during the three-year monitoring period, which is equivalent to giving the new raw material development enterprise a three-year special period. Protect the interests of new raw material development enterprises. The new rules implement a classification management system of registration and filing of new raw materials for cosmetics, freeing up space for the innovation of cosmetic raw materials.

With the development of China's cosmetics industry, raw material innovation has an internal demand power and external rules space, will promote the rapid development of China's cosmetics raw material industry, there will be more cosmetics new raw materials into the vision of consumers. For example, in recent years, several brands have launched cosmetics containing "cannabis ingredients." Cannabis cosmetics are cosmetics that add cannabis ingredients, mainly referring to skin care products that add cannabidiol (CBD), hemp seed oil, hemp leaf extract and other ingredients in industrial hemp. Among them, cannabidiol (CBD) is one of the most commonly used cannabis extracts. Research shows that CBD is a very effective skin care ingredient, which is rich in fatty acids and can fill the cracks in skin cells. It is used in skin care products and has the functions of whitening, anti-oxidation, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, anti-inflammation, acne removal, repair of deep basal cells and deep cleaning of skin. The 2015 edition of the "Catalogue of Used Cosmetic Raw Materials" included "cannabis leaf extract", "cannabis seed fruit" and "cannabis seed oil" ingredients, but did not include cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabis ingredients. It can be predicted that with the development of China's cosmetic raw materials industry, new cosmetic raw materials such as cannabidiol (CBD) will soon enter the consumer field of vision. In the next stage, whether from the perspective of empirical efficacy of cosmetic products, or from the perspective of cosmetics brand marketing, the research and development and use of new raw materials for cosmetics are becoming increasingly important, and the operators of cosmetic raw materials should be laid out in advance. It can be asserted that China's cosmetics raw material innovation ushered in the best period.

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